The morning sun peeks out from the eastern horizon. Uluru glows, aubergine and orange, on a plain of long, spindly shadows cast by desert oak trees. Zebra finches swoop across fields of spinifex and bounce on the branches of honey grevillea. Mutitjulu Waterhole is mirror-still, reflecting the perfect plunge and curve of half-a-billion-year-old sandstone rising into wide blue sky. Uluru takes my breath away, crouched like an immense, wise creature in flat ochre desert where its Anangu custodians have lived for more than 30,000 years.
I have seen Uluru from the back of a camel, with a tour group at sunrise, and with a local Anangu artist who shared Tjukurpa (creation/spirit) stories. Last night I saw it lit mauve in the twilight from my balcony at the Desert Sands Hotel. But now I want to see it alone. So I’m shaking off the tour guides and bus groups to explore the most astonishing landscapes on earth at my own pace.
I’m driving the Red Centre Way, from Uluru to Alice Springs, with a friend who is an artist. At almost every turn we catch our breath, surprised by beauty. Brumbies tearing through the scrub, manes flying, on the road to Kings Canyon; Tjoritja (the West MacDonnell Ranges) rolling in like waves.
We take our time, stop at our leisure. We spend a day among the great boulders, spinifex fields and bloodwood trees of Kata Tjuta. We make our way north to Watarrka (King’s Canyon), buy a beer from the yellow caravan at the resort and sit with the twenty-somethings on gap years, young families and grey nomads to watch the sunset, serenaded by acoustic guitar. Next day we tackle the walk – up, up, up and across the ridge, a stony desert dotted inexplicably with rainforest – then into the cool canyon enclosed by soaring walls.
There’s a stretch of dirt road from here. Check at the resort and they’ll let you know what sort of shape it’s in. It takes us on to Glen Helen Gorge, where the Finke River pools, creating a refuge for birdlife and a swimming hole for dusty humans. Then it’s on to Hermannsburg, birthplace of Albert Namatjira and home to the renowned Hermannsburg Potters. Travellers are welcome in their studio to watch them work their love of country into every round and perfect painted pot.
Finally, winding between mountain spurs, we turn into Angkerle Atwatye (Standley Chasm), an oasis of clear spring water, gentle breezes and rainbow coloured river stones that make music beneath our feet. A special place for Western Arrernte women, it’s managed by traditional owners and has a shady café and a superbly maintained campground that’s a gateway to the Larapinta Trail.
From here, it’s just 40 minutes to Alice Springs. You could stop in the shade of the river gums at Simpson’s Gap, but we press on, in time to see the whole town out in team colours for the annual AFL showdown. Our journey of a lifetime closes in a sea of Port Adelaide jerseys on the grassy hill at Traeger Park.
Sam (right) at Watarrka (Kings Canyon).
(Credit: Samantha Trenoweth)The morning sun peeks out from the eastern horizon. Uluru glows aubergine and orange on a plain of long, spindly shadows cast by desert oak trees. Zebra finches swoop across fields of spinifex and bounce on the branches of honey grevillea. Mutitjulu Waterhole is mirror-still, reflecting the perfect plunge and curve of half-a-billion-year-old sandstone rising into wide blue sky. Uluru takes my breath away, crouched like an immense, wise creature in flat ochre desert where its Anangu custodians have lived for more than 30,000 years.
I have seen Uluru from the back of a camel, with a tour group at sunrise, and with a local Anangu artist who shared Tjukurpa (creation stories). Last night I saw it lit mauve in the twilight from my balcony at the Desert Sands Hotel. But now I want to see it alone. So I’m shaking off the tour guides and bus groups to explore the most astonishing landscapes on earth at my own pace.
I’m driving the Red Centre Way, from Uluru to Alice Springs, with a friend who is an artist. At almost every turn we catch our breath, surprised by beauty. Brumbies tearing through the scrub, their manes flying, on the road to Watarrka (Kings Canyon); Tjoritja (the West MacDonnell Ranges) rolling in like waves.
We take our time, stopping at our leisure. We spend a day among the great boulders, spinifex fields and bloodwood trees of Kata Tjuta.
We make our way north to Watarrka, buy a beer from the yellow caravan at the Kings Canyon Resort and sit with the twenty-somethings on gap years, young families and grey nomads to watch the sunset, serenaded by acoustic guitar.
The next day we tackle the Kings Canyon Rim Walk – up, up, up and across the ridge, a stony desert dotted inexplicably with rainforest – then into the cool canyon enclosed by soaring walls.
There’s a stretch of dirt road from here. Check at the resort and they’ll let you know what sort of shape it’s in – it may not be suitable for a 2WD. It takes us on to Glen Helen Gorge, where the Finke River pools, creating a refuge for birdlife and a swimming hole for dusty humans. Then it’s on to Ntaria (Hermannsburg), birthplace of Albert Namatjira and home to the renowned Hermannsburg Potters. Travellers are welcome in their studio to watch them work their love of Country into every painted pot.
Finally, winding between mountain spurs, we turn into Angkerle Atwatye (Standley Chasm), an oasis of clear spring water and rainbow-coloured river stones that make music beneath our feet. A special place for Western Arrernte women, it’s managed by traditional owners and has a shady cafe and a campground that’s a gateway to the Larapinta Trail.
From here, it’s just 40 minutes to Alice Springs. You could stop in the shade of the ghost gums at Simpson’s Gap, but we press on, in time to see the whole town out in team colours for the annual AFL showdown. And so our journey of a lifetime closes in a sea of Port Adelaide jerseys on the grassy hill at Traeger Park. AWW
West MacDonnell National Park
(Credit: Image: Getty)Red Centre essentials
You can hire a 4WD from Voyages Resort, Uluru Airport or Alice Springs. When travelling in the desert check oil, water, petrol, tyres, and take ample drinking water. If you break down, stay with your car. Mobile coverage is patchy. We stayed at Voyages Resort at Uluru, which offers everything from camp sites through serviced apartments to five-star accommodation in a beautiful desert garden setting. Kings Canyon Resort also runs the gamut from campsites to comfortable motel-style rooms, and there is good accommodation at Glen Helen Gorge. But these places get busy, so book ahead.
Related stories
Native ad body.
Native ad body.
Native ad body.
